Solo travel in Spain - San Sebastian, Barcelona, Granada, Seville

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In October 2012 I decided to travel solo to Spain for 2 weeks. It would be my first time traveling alone internationally and I was terrified. I don't speak Spanish and I was so scared about going by myself that I had a nightmare about never leaving the airport once I arrived. I grew up pretty sheltered so I was always a little scared of traveling but I knew I needed to change. A few years back I went on a month-long backpacking trip to Europe with a friend and he suggested staying at a hostel at some point during our travels. I was resistant but our plans changed suddenly so I finally decided to give hostels a go. When I decide to try something, I jump right in. I booked us in a 12-person mixed dorm!

I'm not going to lie. I had a very negative view of hostels but I tried to keep an open mind. I arrived expecting the worst but my world changed. Everyone who stayed in the hostel was part of a community and I felt an instant connection. I felt like I had finally found my people! That's where I met 2 Australian girls who were traveling solo for 6 months. I was amazed and immediately thought, "If they can do it then I can do it!" and a year later I did. :)

I spent weeks putting together my Spain itinerary after poring over TripAdvisor forums, finding highly-rated and centrally-located hostels, and considering recommendations from friends. I prepared myself by getting directions on Google Maps and studying all my destinations using street view so I'd know what I was looking for (I'm very visual and I'm directionally-challenged). I might have traveled from city to city alone but I ended up meeting a bunch of super nice people at each of my hostels. Most people were also traveling alone so I had instant sightseeing and dining companions. Yay!

My itinerary:

• San Sebastian - 1.5 days
• Barcelona - 4.5 days
• Granada - 2.5 days
• Seville - 3.5 days

Quick tips:

1. Take out cash from an ATM Do it as soon as you get to a city. This works best if your bank doesn't charge ATM withdrawal fees. I use First Republic and they offer free ATM withdrawals worldwide!
2. Get a credit card that doesn't charge foreign transaction fees I have a Capital One Visa which was great - make sure it contains a chip. You can't use it abroad unless it has one.
3. Buy a SIM card when you arrive I brought my unlocked iPhone with me and bought a SIM card when I arrived. I had access to email, Google Maps, and I could make phone calls to Spanish phone numbers. Also helpful so you can keep in touch with people you meet during your trip. I think I paid about 20 € for the SIM card. 
4. Bring your own reusable water bottle I brought my stainless steel water bottle and filled it with tap water to save me money and the planet from plastic bottles. Tip: Google first to find out if the tap water is safe to drink. I love these klean kanteen bottles - they come in a variety of sizes and colors.
5. Pack light Travel as lightly as possible in terms of weight and luggage size. You'll be thankful, especially when you have to move around as much as I did. I brought a tiny wheeled suitcase and a backpack but I wished I brought less because even though my luggage was small, it was heavy. I used the rolling technique to fit in a ton of clothes. These Eagle Creek packing cubes have changed my packing game. I use the large cube for most of my clothes, the medium cube for toiletries, and the small cube for socks and underwear. No more hunting around for my stuff!
6. Bring your own towel Some hostels don't provide towels so it's always best to have your own. I used a small AQUIS quick-drying hand size towel - faster drying and smaller to carry. I felt ridiculous drying myself with a tiny towel but it worked.
7. Bring a lock This will be useful for hostel lockers.
8. Bring a headlamp You may have to get up super early to catch a train or flight. You don't want to wake up your roommates by turning on the lights. I got a simple one like this Petzl headlamp.
9. Carabiners come in handy so pack a few I used mine to secure bags together or loop my water bottle to my bag. I used one like this.
10. Bring earplugs and a sleeping eye mask You never know if your roommates will be loud or wake you up by turning on the lights. 
11. Don't be afraid to strike up a conversation! Lots of people travel alone so there are plenty of opportunities to meet people - at your hostel, on the free walking tours, or even in museums.
12. Book accommodations ahead of time I booked all my hostels on hostelbookers.com or hostelworld.com. Note that that you'll be paying for rooms in the local currency - you'll be paying a foreign transaction fee unless you use a credit card that doesn't charge one.
13. Take a free walking tours Free walking tours are a fantastic way to get oriented to a new city. I always try to go the first day I arrive. Groups get as large as 30 and they're sometimes up to 2-3 hours long so you cover a lot of ground and learn a ton. Some free walking tours are popular and book up fast so reserve your spot online or arrive early to the meeting spot. Bring cash for tips - you decide how much you want to tip. More about the free walking tours below.
14. Explore on foot or on local transit I got around by walking or taking the subway/city bus since public transport gets you to most major destinations. It's a great way to see the city and it's much cheaper than a taxi.
15. Keep your passport on you at all times People have different preferences but I carried my passport with me with at all times (when I went out and even when I went to take a shower).
16. Spread out your cash and credit cards When I carried cash and credit cards I spread them out between different bags and in different pockets. If you get targeted by a pickpocket, they don't make off with everything if it's not all in one place.

Here's my final itinerary and observations about each city.

San Sebastian - 1.5 days

• I flew direct from San Francisco to San Sebastian (SFO-DFW-MAD-EAS). Some people take the train from Madrid but I just took a multi-stop flight.
• I booked a bed in a 6 person dorm at Pension Amalur - it was just a few minutes from the Old Town. Read reviews of Pension Amalur on TripAdvisor.
• The guy who worked at the front desk of my hostel didn't speak English! We got by with hand gestures and Google Translate. I typed my questions in English into Google Translate and he typed his answers in Spanish. Perfect!
• I'm glad I went to San Sebastian - very few people I talked to did but this was one of my favorite places.

San Sebastian - View of the beach from Monte Urgull

• Old Town is where everything is but I stayed just outside it. Maybe about a 5-8 min walk. Hotels are really expensive here so I booked a hostel but that worked for me because I traveled alone.
• I went to one of the top pintxo places (Cuchara de San Telmo) but didn't like it as much as some of the other places where pintxos are just lined up on the bar (you grab whatever you want, self-serve). You just need to ask for a plate and keep the toothpicks so they can count up your tab. Or sometimes they just know what to charge you. It's like magic. At Cuchara de San Telmo all your food is made to order so if you're comfortable pushing your way up to the bar and shouting your order then go for it. I went with a guy from my hostel who spoke Spanish so he ordered for us. I would've gone hungry without him! Reviews of La Cuchara de San Telmo on TripAdvisor.

San Sebastian - Pintxos at one of the many bars in Old Town

San Sebastian - Roasted pig ears at Cuchara de San Telmo

• Everything is walkable - I walked to see The Comb of the Wind sculptures at one end of the beach (Peine de los Viento) then to the other side to the top of the hill to see a great view of the entire city and beach. At Peine de los Viento there are holes in the ground that you should stand on. When a wave crashes beneath them it forces up a huge gust of air. Great photo ops here. :o) Read reviews of Peine de los Viento on TripAdvisor.

San Sebastian - The Comb of the Wind sculpture by Eduardo Chillida at Peine de los Viento

San Sebastian - waves crash beneath these holes

San Sebastian - enjoying the rush of air at Peine de los Viento  

San Sebastian - enjoying the rush of air at Peine de los Viento

San Sebastian - interesting rock layers

San Sebastian - view of the beach walking back from Peine de los Viento

• Walk up Moute Urgull and enjoy the views from way up high. Read reviews of Moute Urgull on TripAdvisor.

San Sebastian - Locks of Love on the way up Monte Urgull

San Sebastian - The "Construcción Vacía' (Empty Construction) sculpture by Jorge Oteiza at the base of Monte Urgull

• Enjoy some chocolate con churros at Santa Lucia in Old Town. The place looks like a diner but they don't mess around with their chocolate. It's served in what looks like a coffee mug but don't drink it! A little goes a long way. It was thick but I don't remember it being too sweet. There's a reason it's called chocolate con churros and not churros con chocolate (according to people from San Sebastian). Reviews of Santa Lucia on TripAdvisor.

San Sebastian - chocolate con churros at Santa Lucia

• Mugaritz - pass on it. My hostel-mate Jason had a reservation for himself and asked if I wanted to go. I joined him because I couldn't pass up going to a 3 Michelin star restaurant! I paid €170 for an 8 course meal. Boy, was I glad I balanced it out by staying at a €30 a night hostel! I thought the dining experience and presentation was nearly perfect but everything was lacking in taste. The boiled potato rolled in volcanic ash tasted like... a plain boiled potato. What a shame because at the time Mugaritz was the 3rd best restaurant in the world. Read reviews of Mugaritz on TripAdvisor.

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - bread in the form of paper with olive spread

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - crunch paper and spinach

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - boiled potato rolled in volcanic ash with mayo

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - scarlet prawn with rice pasta

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - pasta with pumpkin and tomato sauce

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - squid with lemon

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - ravioli with chicken broth

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - scorpion fish with wonder berries

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - fish, sesame seed, consumme

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - seam bream with deep fried pasta

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - guinea fowl with lobster emulsion

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - pig tails with bitter leaves

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - milky wafer with lemon ice cream

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - candies of frankincense and eucalyptus bark

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - pear ice cream with toasted milk and butter

• We visited Mercado de la Bretxa to have a quick look around. Read reviews of Mercado de la Bretxa on TripAdvisor.

San Sebastian - One of the fish stalls at Mercado de la Bretxa

San Sebastian - This was in the middle of the market. We have no idea what this is!

• La Perla spa - it was booked the entire time I was there but I really wish I could have booked a treatment. Especially after I experienced a hammam - it was heavenly. More about that in the Granada section.
• Train station is walkable from where I stayed - I just bought a ticket to Barcelona when I arrived in San Sebastian. No need to book ahead unless you're going during peak season. A train ride from San Sebastian to Barcelona took about 5 and a half hours. It cost me €66.
• Cafe con leche. Get one every day. In every city. :o)

San Sebastian - What is it about the cafe con leche in Spain? It's amazing!

Barcelona - 4.5 days

• I stayed at the Barcelona Central Garden Hostel - pretty good location. I hit it off with my dorm mates so I spent a few days sightseeing with them. Reviews of Barcelona Central Garden Hostel on TripAdvisor.
• Really cool city, very spread out, lots of different neighborhoods
• Museu Picasso is worth a visit if you have a free afternoon. The museum houses some of the most extensive collections of Picasso's work and reveals the influence Barcelona had on the artist in his youth, adolescence, and throughout his life. I happened to visit the museum when admission was free - don't get discouraged by the super long line, it moved pretty quickly. Read reviews of Museu Picasso on TripAdvisor.
• Buy your tickets to La Sagrada Familia ahead of time - preferably as soon as you arrive in Barcelona. You can buy them on ticketmaster online which is what I did. You can also buy them at these ATM-like machines called La Caixa (they're yellow). I was never able to do it for some reason... I think you need a credit card with a chip and I didn't have one. But these machines are right around La Sagrada Familia so instead of lining up for an hour, just go to one of these machines or buy it online at Ticketmaster. It was sold out so I had to buy for a different day. I got the pass for one of the towers too - you can walk up and get a great view. The inside was just gorgeous, I must have sat there staring at the ceiling for 30 minutes. Basilica & Torre Naixement ticket €17,30. Reviews of La Sagrada Familia on TripAdvisor.
• Update on March 5, 2014: someone posted on TripAdvisor that you can no longer purchase tickets from La Caixa machines.

Barcelona - La Sagrada Familia still under construction

Barcelona - Inside La Sagrada Familia

Barcelona - Inside La Sagrada Familia

• I walked almost everywhere, it just took like 30 minutes but it's a better way to see the city.
• I took the city bus to Park Guell - this place is super cool even though it's a commercially unsuccessful housing site envisioned by Count Eusebi Guell, after whom the park was named. The gardens, serpentine bench, and various pathways were designed by Gaudi. You feel like a little kid when you walk around and take it all in! Read reviews of Park Guell on TripAdvisor.

Barcelona - entrance to Park Guell

Barcelona - taking a rest on the colorful serpentine bench in Park Guell

Barcelona - the only 2 finished houses in Park Guell weren't built by Gaudi

• I took a half-day cooking class with Cook & Taste (€65). I showed up alone but ended up making new friends for the day. We prepped and cooked in a casual setting - sometimes we just sat and observed while the chef and other students cooked. Cook & Taste offers an optional tour of La Boqueria market before the class. I skipped it (cost €13) and just went on my own another day. At the end of class we enjoyed a delicious lunch that we cooked and took home printed recipes. Read reviews of Cook & Taste Barcelona on TripAdvisor.
• One of the women I posed with in the photo below worked as a police detective for 20 years. She posed as a prostitute in a few stings to arrest johns. Pretty crazy!! The other woman is a writer. And no, they don't know each other. I think they could pass as sisters!

Barcelona - Cook & Taste cooking class

Barcelona - Making paella at Cook & Taste cooking class

Barcelona - Making Catalan Cream at Cook & Taste cooking class

• La Boqueria market is worth a visit. It's crammed end to end with all sorts of food stalls offering fresh seafood to fresh fruit juices. It's a bit crowded so watch your personal items while you partake in all the yummy food. Reviews of La Boqueria on TripAdvisor.

Barcelona - one of the many aisles in La Boqueria market

Barcelona - one of the many fruit stands in La Boqueria market

Barcelona - dried fruit and nuts in La Boqueria market

Barcelona - leg of ham and cured meats aplenty at La Boqueria market

Barcelona - you can find all types of olives at La Boqueria market

Barcelona - this is one of the more colorful candy stalls at La Boqueria market

Barcelona - chocolate and candy stall at La Boqueria market

• For my last 2 days in Barcelona I stayed with my friend Livi who's from Barcelona (I met her at a hostel in Tokyo - aren't hostels great?) so she took me to some local places - Txapela and La Fernandez. Reviews of La Fernandez on TripAdvisor.
• Please read more about how Livi and I met and our adventures in Tokyo in another blog post: Japan - Tokyo and Kyoto
• I also met up with my friend Alvin who was studying abroad in Barcelona at the time. He's the same friend I traveled to Europe with who introduced me to hostels (and changed my life!). He took me to Cerveseria Catalana - this place was extremely popular so we didn't eat until 9:30 or 10pm. You know, standard dinner time in Barcelona. Read reviews of Cerveseria Catalana on TripAdvisor.
• Please read about my life-changing hostel experience in Part 4 of my 5 part series of my month-long trip through Europe. Poland - Kraków and Auschwitz-Birkenau

Barcelona - Dinner with Alvin and Livi

• I did a few free walking tours with Runner Bean - their tour guides are really knowledgeable and they give you tons of info which I like. You tip whatever you want at the end of the tour. The Gaudi free walking tour was fantastic - you don't go into any of the Gaudi houses but you can see plenty from the outside. A lot of the figures from these houses were inspiration for George Lucus' Star Wars Storm Troopers! The Old City Walking Tour was just okay. Spots for the free walking tours book up fast so either book online in advance or show up 30 minutes early at the meeting spot. Reviews of Runner Bean Walking Tours on TripAdvisor.

Barcelona - Gaudi's Casa Batllo

Barcelona - Gaudi's Casa Mila. Can you see the figures that inspired 

George Lucas' Storm Troopers?

• I didn't make it to Montserrat...
• Pickpocketing is rampant here - it didn't happen to me but you have to be really aware of your surroundings, especially on Las Ramblas. I noticed most of the women walking on the street gripped their purse with both hands so I did the same. My roommates told me what happened to them - someone squirted ketchup on them when they arrived at the train station. Someone will help wipe up the sauce and someone else will steal your stuff. If you get targeted just keep walking.
• My brother-in-law had his camera stolen by a pair of thieves. Someone squirted sauce on him to distract him while someone else took off with his camera. On a separate trip my husband was approached by someone who pretended to play soccer with him, most likely trying to trip him. My husband just pushed him away and walked away. Don't worry about being rude, better safe than sorry!
• Another scam I heard about and saw involved approaching tourists with a map or a petition on a clipboard or a folder. Pickpockets use the map to obstruct your view as they rifle through your bags or pockets. Sometimes pickpockets are dressed as tourists so be wary of anyone approaching you, asking for help.

Granada - 2.5 days

• I flew on Vueling Airlines from Barcelona to Granada - it was too far to take the train or bus. The flight was only about an hour and a half long. A train would've taken about 7 hours and a bus about 13 hours.
• I booked a bed in a 6 person dorm at the Granada Inn Backpackers. There was free breakfast of bread, butter, jam, and yogurt. The accommodations were decent but people there were noisy! I'm glad I had my ear plugs and sleeping mask. Reviews of Granada Inn Backpackers on TripAdvisor.
• I think I liked Granada the best because I met this really awesome girl named Genna there. She's from Boston (a fellow American!) and spent a few months in Seville teaching English. She came to Granada just for the weekend - we happened to be roommates in the 6 person dorm so we hung out and went sightseeing all weekend.
• I walked everywhere in the city. I was told to take a bus to the Alhambra but a walk from my hostel was only about 15 minutes. It's a little steep but I live in San Francisco so I was used to walking up hills.
• Alhambra and Generalife gardens - this place sells out like crazy! I could only get tickets for 2 days after I arrived. You can go there early in the morning to get tickets (the line might be 30 mins to 1 hour) or you can pop into the Alhambra book store to buy them from a Ticketmaster kiosk which is what I did (€14,30 including IVA). Definitely get the audio guide. Read reviews of The Alhambra on TripAdvisor.
• Alhambra book store (Tienda Libreria de la Alhambra) is located at Calle Reyes Católicos, 40, 18009 Granada, Spain.

Granada - You get the best views of The Alhambra from Mirador de San Nicolas

Granada - Inside The Alhambra

Granada - The details inside The Alhambra are incredible!

Granada - The Court of the Lions

Granada - This fountain was a clock of sorts. Each lion would spew water

at the top of the hour. It worked until someone decided to take it

apart to see how it could tell time and it's never worked since!

• I did a free walking tour through my hostel - we visited the Sacromonte caves and the Albayzin.
• Have tea in the Albayzin - it's a tiny area with stores and cafes. It looks like Morocco. Read reviews of the Albayzin on TripAdvisor.

Granada - The Albayzin - very narrow streets lined with shops, restaurants, and tea shops

Granada - A lamp shop in the Albayzin

Granada - Tea and a snack in the Albayzin

Granada - Genna and I enjoy our tea in the Albayzin

• Genna and I went to the Hammam Al Andalus - it was HEAVEN. The front desk staff at my hostel called to make an appointment for me. You book a 90 minute session and you have access to cold, warm, and hot pools, a steam room, and a hot marble slab that you can lie on. Oh, and all the Moroccan mint tea you can drink. I also got a 30 minute massage. I would have gone a second time if I could. :o) You must wear a swimsuit but if you don't have one you can buy one from the front desk. Reviews of Hammam Al Andalus on TripAdvisor.
• See King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella's tombs and actual coffins (underground) in the Royal Chapel. Tickets €4/person Cripta y Museo de los Reyes Catolicos. Reviews of the Cathedral and Royal Chapel on TripAdvisor.
• Watch out for gypsies who tend to hang out around cathedrals like the Royal Chapel. They'll try to hand you a sprig of rosemary - they've got you the moment you touch the rosemary. They're aggressive and they'll try to read your palm. If you don't give them money they'll start yelling at you. One of the girls I met said she gave a woman 1 and 2 euro coins but the woman demanded bills. When I saw any of these women I just ignored them and kept walking even though a few of them tried to grab me. If one of the women manages to get rosemary into your had just drop it and keep walking. The worst that'll happen is you'll get yelled at but it's better than being out a few euros and feeling like you got scammed.
• I bought a bus ticket from Granada to Seville. It cost 23 Euros. The bus ride was about 3 hours. I bought my bus ticket from my hostel and I took a city bus to get to the Granada bus station.

Seville - 3.5 days

• Seville was my last city and after staying at hostels I figured I'd want some alone time so I booked a room at a hotel. I realized that I liked being around other travelers! I was so lonely in my single room. I stayed at Hotel Alcantara which was a few minutes from Seville Cathedral. Review of Hotel Alcantara on TripAdvisor.
• I did a free walking tour with Pancho Tours - you pay whatever you want at the end. I did a morning tour which covered a lot of ground - Plaza de Espana, Queen Isabella's summer home, the cigar factory where Carmen worked (of the opera Carmen). Reviews of Pancho Tours on TripAdvisor.
• Visit the Seville Cathedral - you'll see the Giralda bell tower that was rebuilt by conquerors. Roman stones on the bottom, Muslim-influenced arches in the middle section, topped off by a Catholic bell tower. You can climb all the way to the top. Visit Columbus' tomb inside the Cathedral. Reviews of Seville Cathedral on TripAdvisor.

Seville - Giralda bell tower

Seville - The tomb of Christopher Columbus which may not  

contain his actual remains. I'm no fan of Christopher Columbus and 

I doubt you will be after you read this from The Oatmeal.

• I also visited the bullfight museum. Glad I wasn't there during the bullfight season - I wouldn't be able to stomach it. Read reviews of Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza on TripAdvisor.

Seville - Bullfight arena

• I hung out with Genna a few nights in Seville since she lived there at the time. I went over to her place in Triana for dinner one night and she met me for dinner another night near the Cathedral. We made plans to meet up back in the States and we did almost 2 years later when I went to Boston for my cousin's wedding. :o)

Seville - A cool sculpture of Seville bullfighter Juan Belmonte that I saw

walking back to my hotel from Genna's place. If you line your camera 

up just right you can fit in the Giralda tower where his heart is. The sculpture

is in The Plaza of the Hill in the district of Triana.

Seville - Night time view of the Triana neighborhood

• I wandered around Barrio de Santa Cruz looking for the flamenco museum but I got totally lost. I had 2 maps and my iPhone and I still couldn't find it. I even roped 2 other tourists into helping me look for it. It turned out we were right around the corner from it. The printed maps didn't have enough detail to show the streets and sometimes street names change when they intersect with another street. I was amazed to see cars driving through some of these zig-zagging streets. At one point I had to jump onto a tiny curb so that a car could pass by. I was literally an arm's length away from the driver. So close that he could've pulled me into his car but there was actually no way he could've opened his door. Whew. :) Don't panic if you get lost. Just wander around and you'll find your way out sooner or later.
• Visit the Alcazar but after seeing The Alhambra this place looked like a closet. Reviews of Real Alcazar on TripAdvisor.

Seville - The Alcazar

• I went to a Flamenco show that was right next to my hotel - it was my last night and I felt like I had to go. I could have skipped it. Meh. Reviews of La Casa del Flamenco on TripAdvisor.

Seville - Flamenco show at La Casa del Flamenco Auditorio Alcantara

• Plaza de Espana was really cool - the main building was used as inspiration for Star Wars: Attack of the Clones. Reviews of Plaza de Espana on TripAdvisor.

Seville - Plaza de Espana

My trip to Spain came at the end of a 4 week sabbatical. Prior to coming to Spain I spent 2 weeks in Peru - I hiked the Inca Trail to see Machu Picchu and also spent time in the Amazon rainforest. Please read about my Peru trip in another blog post Peru - Machu Picchu and the Amazon rainforest.

Another reason to love hostels - you meet really cool people. Genna and I met up almost two years later when I came to Boston for my cousin's wedding. She met my now husband and I met her boyfriend. Come visit us in San Francisco, Genna!

Boston - Former Granada hostel roommates meeting up in Boston

If you enjoyed this please check out my other trip blogs:

• Arizona - Girls trip to Sedona
• California Wine Country without the wineries - Napa, Sonoma, and Yountville
• Germany - Munich, Dresden, and Berlin
• Austria - Salzburg and Vienna
• Hungary - Budapest, Szentendre, and an amusing Thai massage experience
• Poland - Kraków and Auschwitz-Birkenau
• Czech Republic - Prague and Kutná Hora
• Portugal - Lisbon and Sintra
• Iceland - Reykjavik and more
• Thailand and Laos - Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and Luang Prabang
• Japan - Tokyo and Kyoto
• Greece and Turkey - Santorini, Mykonos, Cappadocia, and Istanbul
• Our honeymoon to Amsterdam, Belgium, and South Africa

Happy traveling and thanks for reading!