Saturday, March 1, 2014

Solo travel in Spain - San Sebastian, Barcelona, Granada, Seville

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In October 2012 I decided to travel solo to Spain for 2 weeks. It would be my first time traveling alone internationally and I was terrified. I don't speak Spanish and I was so scared about going by myself that I had a nightmare about never leaving the airport once I arrived. I grew up pretty sheltered so I was always a little scared of traveling but I knew I needed to change. A few years back I went on a month-long backpacking trip to Europe with a friend and he suggested staying at a hostel at some point during our travels. I was resistant but our plans changed suddenly so I finally decided to give hostels a go. When I decide to try something, I jump right in. I booked us in a 12-person mixed dorm!

I'm not going to lie. I had a very negative view of hostels but I tried to keep an open mind. I arrived expecting the worst but my world changed. Everyone who stayed in the hostel was part of a community and I felt an instant connection. I felt like I had finally found my people! That's where I met 2 Australian girls who were traveling solo for 6 months. I was amazed and immediately thought, "If they can do it then I can do it!" and a year later I did. :)

I spent weeks putting together my Spain itinerary after poring over TripAdvisor forums, finding highly-rated and centrally-located hostels, and considering recommendations from friends. I prepared myself by getting directions on Google Maps and studying all my destinations using street view so I'd know what I was looking for (I'm very visual and I'm directionally-challenged). I might have traveled from city to city alone but I ended up meeting a bunch of super nice people at each of my hostels. Most people were also traveling alone so I had instant sightseeing and dining companions. Yay!

My itinerary:
  • San Sebastian - 1.5 days
  • Barcelona - 4.5 days
  • Granada - 2.5 days
  • Seville - 3.5 days
Quick tips:
  1. Take out cash from an ATM Do it as soon as you get to a city. This works best if your bank doesn't charge ATM withdrawal fees. I use First Republic and they offer free ATM withdrawals worldwide!
  2. Get a credit card that doesn't charge foreign transaction fees I have a Capital One Visa which was great - make sure it contains a chip. You can't use it abroad unless it has one.
  3. Buy a SIM card when you arrive I brought my unlocked iPhone with me and bought a SIM card when I arrived. I had access to email, Google Maps, and I could make phone calls to Spanish phone numbers. Also helpful so you can keep in touch with people you meet during your trip. I think I paid about 20 € for the SIM card. 
  4. Bring your own reusable water bottle I brought my stainless steel water bottle and filled it with tap water to save me money and the planet from plastic bottles. Tip: Google first to find out if the tap water is safe to drink. I love these klean kanteen bottles - they come in a variety of sizes and colors.
  5. Pack light Travel as lightly as possible in terms of weight and luggage size. You'll be thankful, especially when you have to move around as much as I did. I brought a tiny wheeled suitcase and a backpack but I wished I brought less because even though my luggage was small, it was heavy. I used the rolling technique to fit in a ton of clothes. These Eagle Creek packing cubes have changed my packing game. I use the large cube for most of my clothes, the medium cube for toiletries, and the small cube for socks and underwear. No more hunting around for my stuff!
  6. Bring your own towel Some hostels don't provide towels so it's always best to have your own. I used a small AQUIS quick-drying hand size towel - faster drying and smaller to carry. I felt ridiculous drying myself with a tiny towel but it worked.
  7. Bring a lock This will be useful for hostel lockers.
  8. Bring a headlamp You may have to get up super early to catch a train or flight. You don't want to wake up your roommates by turning on the lights. I got a simple one like this Petzl headlamp.
  9. Carabiners come in handy so pack a few I used mine to secure bags together or loop my water bottle to my bag. I used one like this.
  10. Bring earplugs and a sleeping eye mask You never know if your roommates will be loud or wake you up by turning on the lights. 
  11. Don't be afraid to strike up a conversation! Lots of people travel alone so there are plenty of opportunities to meet people - at your hostel, on the free walking tours, or even in museums.
  12. Book accommodations ahead of time I booked all my hostels on hostelbookers.com or hostelworld.com. Note that that you'll be paying for rooms in the local currency - you'll be paying a foreign transaction fee unless you use a credit card that doesn't charge one.
  13. Take a free walking tours Free walking tours are a fantastic way to get oriented to a new city. I always try to go the first day I arrive. Groups get as large as 30 and they're sometimes up to 2-3 hours long so you cover a lot of ground and learn a ton. Some free walking tours are popular and book up fast so reserve your spot online or arrive early to the meeting spot. Bring cash for tips - you decide how much you want to tip. More about the free walking tours below.
  14. Explore on foot or on local transit I got around by walking or taking the subway/city bus since public transport gets you to most major destinations. It's a great way to see the city and it's much cheaper than a taxi.
  15. Keep your passport on you at all times People have different preferences but I carried my passport with me with at all times (when I went out and even when I went to take a shower).
  16. Spread out your cash and credit cards When I carried cash and credit cards I spread them out between different bags and in different pockets. If you get targeted by a pickpocket, they don't make off with everything if it's not all in one place.

Here's my final itinerary and observations about each city.

San Sebastian - 1.5 days

  • I flew direct from San Francisco to San Sebastian (SFO-DFW-MAD-EAS). Some people take the train from Madrid but I just took a multi-stop flight.
  • I booked a bed in a 6 person dorm at Pension Amalur - it was just a few minutes from the Old Town. Read reviews of Pension Amalur on TripAdvisor.
  • The guy who worked at the front desk of my hostel didn't speak English! We got by with hand gestures and Google Translate. I typed my questions in English into Google Translate and he typed his answers in Spanish. Perfect!
  • I'm glad I went to San Sebastian - very few people I talked to did but this was one of my favorite places.
San Sebastian - view of the beach from Monte Urgull
San Sebastian - View of the beach from Monte Urgull
  • Old Town is where everything is but I stayed just outside it. Maybe about a 5-8 min walk. Hotels are really expensive here so I booked a hostel but that worked for me because I traveled alone.
  • I went to one of the top pintxo places (Cuchara de San Telmo) but didn't like it as much as some of the other places where pintxos are just lined up on the bar (you grab whatever you want, self-serve). You just need to ask for a plate and keep the toothpicks so they can count up your tab. Or sometimes they just know what to charge you. It's like magic. At Cuchara de San Telmo all your food is made to order so if you're comfortable pushing your way up to the bar and shouting your order then go for it. I went with a guy from my hostel who spoke Spanish so he ordered for us. I would've gone hungry without him! Reviews of La Cuchara de San Telmo on TripAdvisor.
San Sebastian - pintxos at one of the many bars in Old Town
San Sebastian - Pintxos at one of the many bars in Old Town

San Sebastian - roasted pig ears at Cuchara de San Telmo
San Sebastian - Roasted pig ears at Cuchara de San Telmo
  • Everything is walkable - I walked to see The Comb of the Wind sculptures at one end of the beach (Peine de los Viento) then to the other side to the top of the hill to see a great view of the entire city and beach. At Peine de los Viento there are holes in the ground that you should stand on. When a wave crashes beneath them it forces up a huge gust of air. Great photo ops here. :o) Read reviews of Peine de los Viento on TripAdvisor.
San Sebastian - The Comb of the Wind sculpture by Eduardo Chillida at Peine de los Viento
San Sebastian - The Comb of the Wind sculpture by Eduardo Chillida at Peine de los Viento

San Sebastian - waves crash beneath these holes
San Sebastian - waves crash beneath these holes

San Sebastian - enjoying the rush of air at Peine de los Viento
San Sebastian - enjoying the rush of air at Peine de los Viento  

San Sebastian - enjoying the rush of air at Peine de los Viento
San Sebastian - enjoying the rush of air at Peine de los Viento

San Sebastian - interesting rock layers
San Sebastian - interesting rock layers

San Sebastian - view of the beach walking back from Peine de los Viento
San Sebastian - view of the beach walking back from Peine de los Viento
San Sebastian - Locks of Love on the way up Monte Urgull
San Sebastian - Locks of Love on the way up Monte Urgull

San Sebastian - The "Construcción Vacía' (Empty Construction) sculpture by Jorge Oteiza at the base of Monte Urgull
San Sebastian - The "Construcción Vacía' (Empty Construction) sculpture by Jorge Oteiza at the base of Monte Urgull
  • Enjoy some chocolate con churros at Santa Lucia in Old Town. The place looks like a diner but they don't mess around with their chocolate. It's served in what looks like a coffee mug but don't drink it! A little goes a long way. It was thick but I don't remember it being too sweet. There's a reason it's called chocolate con churros and not churros con chocolate (according to people from San Sebastian). Reviews of Santa Lucia on TripAdvisor.
San Sebastian - chocolate con churros at Santa Lucia
San Sebastian - chocolate con churros at Santa Lucia
  • Mugaritz - pass on it. My hostel-mate Jason had a reservation for himself and asked if I wanted to go. I joined him because I couldn't pass up going to a 3 Michelin star restaurant! I paid €170 for an 8 course meal. Boy, was I glad I balanced it out by staying at a €30 a night hostel! I thought the dining experience and presentation was nearly perfect but everything was lacking in taste. The boiled potato rolled in volcanic ash tasted like... a plain boiled potato. What a shame because at the time Mugaritz was the 3rd best restaurant in the world. Read reviews of Mugaritz on TripAdvisor.
San Sebastian - Mugaritz - bread in the form of paper with olive spread
San Sebastian - Mugaritz - bread in the form of paper with olive spread

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - crunch paper and spinach
San Sebastian - Mugaritz - crunch paper and spinach

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - boiled potato rolled in volcanic ash with mayo
San Sebastian - Mugaritz - boiled potato rolled in volcanic ash with mayo

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - scarlet prawn with rice pasta
San Sebastian - Mugaritz - scarlet prawn with rice pasta

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - pasta with pumpkin and tomato sauce
San Sebastian - Mugaritz - pasta with pumpkin and tomato sauce

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - squid with lemon
San Sebastian - Mugaritz - squid with lemon

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - ravioli with chicken broth
San Sebastian - Mugaritz - ravioli with chicken broth

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - scorpion fish with wonder berries
San Sebastian - Mugaritz - scorpion fish with wonder berries

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - fish, sesame seed, consumme
San Sebastian - Mugaritz - fish, sesame seed, consumme

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - seam bream with deep fried pasta
San Sebastian - Mugaritz - seam bream with deep fried pasta

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - guinea fowl with lobster emulsion
San Sebastian - Mugaritz - guinea fowl with lobster emulsion

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - pig tails with bitter leaves
San Sebastian - Mugaritz - pig tails with bitter leaves

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - milky wafer with lemon ice cream
San Sebastian - Mugaritz - milky wafer with lemon ice cream

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - candies of frankincense and eucalyptus bark
San Sebastian - Mugaritz - candies of frankincense and eucalyptus bark

San Sebastian - Mugaritz - pear ice cream with toasted milk and butter
San Sebastian - Mugaritz - pear ice cream with toasted milk and butter
San Sebastian - One of the fish stalls at Mercado de la Bretxa
San Sebastian - One of the fish stalls at Mercado de la Bretxa

San Sebastian - This was in the middle of the market. We have no idea what this is!
San Sebastian - This was in the middle of the market. We have no idea what this is!
  • La Perla spa - it was booked the entire time I was there but I really wish I could have booked a treatment. Especially after I experienced a hammam - it was heavenly. More about that in the Granada section.
  • Train station is walkable from where I stayed - I just bought a ticket to Barcelona when I arrived in San Sebastian. No need to book ahead unless you're going during peak season. A train ride from San Sebastian to Barcelona took about 5 and a half hours. It cost me €66.
  • Cafe con leche. Get one every day. In every city. :o)
San Sebastian - cafe con leche
San Sebastian - What is it about the cafe con leche in Spain? It's amazing!

Barcelona - 4.5 days
  • I stayed at the Barcelona Central Garden Hostel - pretty good location. I hit it off with my dorm mates so I spent a few days sightseeing with them. Reviews of Barcelona Central Garden Hostel on TripAdvisor.
  • Really cool city, very spread out, lots of different neighborhoods
  • Museu Picasso is worth a visit if you have a free afternoon. The museum houses some of the most extensive collections of Picasso's work and reveals the influence Barcelona had on the artist in his youth, adolescence, and throughout his life. I happened to visit the museum when admission was free - don't get discouraged by the super long line, it moved pretty quickly. Read reviews of Museu Picasso on TripAdvisor.
  • Buy your tickets to La Sagrada Familia ahead of time - preferably as soon as you arrive in Barcelona. You can buy them on ticketmaster online which is what I did. You can also buy them at these ATM-like machines called La Caixa (they're yellow). I was never able to do it for some reason... I think you need a credit card with a chip and I didn't have one. But these machines are right around La Sagrada Familia so instead of lining up for an hour, just go to one of these machines or buy it online at Ticketmaster. It was sold out so I had to buy for a different day. I got the pass for one of the towers too - you can walk up and get a great view. The inside was just gorgeous, I must have sat there staring at the ceiling for 30 minutes. Basilica & Torre Naixement ticket €17,30. Reviews of La Sagrada Familia on TripAdvisor.
    • Update on March 5, 2014: someone posted on TripAdvisor that you can no longer purchase tickets from La Caixa machines.
Barcelona - La Sagrada Familia still under construction
Barcelona - La Sagrada Familia still under construction

Barcelona - Inside La Sagrada Familia
Barcelona - Inside La Sagrada Familia

Barcelona - Inside La Sagrada Familia
Barcelona - Inside La Sagrada Familia
  • I walked almost everywhere, it just took like 30 minutes but it's a better way to see the city.
  • I took the city bus to Park Guell - this place is super cool even though it's a commercially unsuccessful housing site envisioned by Count Eusebi Guell, after whom the park was named. The gardens, serpentine bench, and various pathways were designed by Gaudi. You feel like a little kid when you walk around and take it all in! Read reviews of Park Guell on TripAdvisor.
Barcelona - entrance to Park Guell
Barcelona - entrance to Park Guell

Barcelona - taking a rest on the colorful serpentine bench in Park Guell
Barcelona - taking a rest on the colorful serpentine bench in Park Guell

Barcelona - the only 2 houses Gaudi finished in Park Guell
Barcelona - the only 2 finished houses in Park Guell weren't built by Gaudi
  • I took a half-day cooking class with Cook & Taste (€65). I showed up alone but ended up making new friends for the day. We prepped and cooked in a casual setting - sometimes we just sat and observed while the chef and other students cooked. Cook & Taste offers an optional tour of La Boqueria market before the class. I skipped it (cost €13) and just went on my own another day. At the end of class we enjoyed a delicious lunch that we cooked and took home printed recipes. Read reviews of Cook & Taste Barcelona on TripAdvisor.
  • One of the women I posed with in the photo below worked as a police detective for 20 years. She posed as a prostitute in a few stings to arrest johns. Pretty crazy!! The other woman is a writer. And no, they don't know each other. I think they could pass as sisters!
Barcelona - Cook & Taste cooking class
Barcelona - Cook & Taste cooking class

Barcelona - Making paella at Cook & Taste cooking class
Barcelona - Making paella at Cook & Taste cooking class

Barcelona - Making Catalan Cream at Cook & Taste cooking class
Barcelona - Making Catalan Cream at Cook & Taste cooking class
  • La Boqueria market is worth a visit. It's crammed end to end with all sorts of food stalls offering fresh seafood to fresh fruit juices. It's a bit crowded so watch your personal items while you partake in all the yummy food. Reviews of La Boqueria on TripAdvisor.
Barcelona - one of the many aisles in La Boqueria
Barcelona - one of the many aisles in La Boqueria market

Barcelona - one of the many fruit stands in La Boqueria market
Barcelona - one of the many fruit stands in La Boqueria market

Barcelona - dried fruit and nuts in La Boqueria market
Barcelona - dried fruit and nuts in La Boqueria market

Barcelona - leg of ham and cured meats aplenty at La Boqueria market
Barcelona - leg of ham and cured meats aplenty at La Boqueria market

Barcelona - you can find all types of olives at La Boqueria market
Barcelona - you can find all types of olives at La Boqueria market

Barcelona - this is one of the more colorful candy stalls at La Boqueria market
Barcelona - this is one of the more colorful candy stalls at La Boqueria market

Barcelona - chocolate and candy stall at La Boqueria market
Barcelona - chocolate and candy stall at La Boqueria market
  • For my last 2 days in Barcelona I stayed with my friend Livi who's from Barcelona (I met her at a hostel in Tokyo - aren't hostels great?) so she took me to some local places - Txapela and La Fernandez. Reviews of La Fernandez on TripAdvisor.
  • Please read more about how Livi and I met and our adventures in Tokyo in another blog post: Japan - Tokyo and Kyoto
  • I also met up with my friend Alvin who was studying abroad in Barcelona at the time. He's the same friend I traveled to Europe with who introduced me to hostels (and changed my life!). He took me to Cerveseria Catalana - this place was extremely popular so we didn't eat until 9:30 or 10pm. You know, standard dinner time in Barcelona. Read reviews of Cerveseria Catalana on TripAdvisor.
  • Please read about my life-changing hostel experience in Part 4 of my 5 part series of my month-long trip through Europe. Poland - Kraków and Auschwitz-Birkenau
Barcelona - Dinner with Alvin and Livi
Barcelona - Dinner with Alvin and Livi
  • I did a few free walking tours with Runner Bean - their tour guides are really knowledgeable and they give you tons of info which I like. You tip whatever you want at the end of the tour. The Gaudi free walking tour was fantastic - you don't go into any of the Gaudi houses but you can see plenty from the outside. A lot of the figures from these houses were inspiration for George Lucus' Star Wars Storm Troopers! The Old City Walking Tour was just okay. Spots for the free walking tours book up fast so either book online in advance or show up 30 minutes early at the meeting spot. Reviews of Runner Bean Walking Tours on TripAdvisor.
Barcelona - Gaudi's Casa Batllo
Barcelona - Gaudi's Casa Batllo

Barcelona - Gaudi's Casa Mila. Can you see the figures that inspired 
George Lucas' Storm Troopers?
  • I didn't make it to Montserrat...
  • Pickpocketing is rampant here - it didn't happen to me but you have to be really aware of your surroundings, especially on Las Ramblas. I noticed most of the women walking on the street gripped their purse with both hands so I did the same. My roommates told me what happened to them - someone squirted ketchup on them when they arrived at the train station. Someone will help wipe up the sauce and someone else will steal your stuff. If you get targeted just keep walking.
  • My brother-in-law had his camera stolen by a pair of thieves. Someone squirted sauce on him to distract him while someone else took off with his camera. On a separate trip my husband was approached by someone who pretended to play soccer with him, most likely trying to trip him. My husband just pushed him away and walked away. Don't worry about being rude, better safe than sorry!
  • Another scam I heard about and saw involved approaching tourists with a map or a petition on a clipboard or a folder. Pickpockets use the map to obstruct your view as they rifle through your bags or pockets. Sometimes pickpockets are dressed as tourists so be wary of anyone approaching you, asking for help.
Granada - 2.5 days
  • I flew on Vueling Airlines from Barcelona to Granada - it was too far to take the train or bus. The flight was only about an hour and a half long. A train would've taken about 7 hours and a bus about 13 hours.
  • I booked a bed in a 6 person dorm at the Granada Inn Backpackers. There was free breakfast of bread, butter, jam, and yogurt. The accommodations were decent but people there were noisy! I'm glad I had my ear plugs and sleeping mask. Reviews of Granada Inn Backpackers on TripAdvisor.
  • I think I liked Granada the best because I met this really awesome girl named Genna there. She's from Boston (a fellow American!) and spent a few months in Seville teaching English. She came to Granada just for the weekend - we happened to be roommates in the 6 person dorm so we hung out and went sightseeing all weekend.
  • I walked everywhere in the city. I was told to take a bus to the Alhambra but a walk from my hostel was only about 15 minutes. It's a little steep but I live in San Francisco so I was used to walking up hills.
  • Alhambra and Generalife gardens - this place sells out like crazy! I could only get tickets for 2 days after I arrived. You can go there early in the morning to get tickets (the line might be 30 mins to 1 hour) or you can pop into the Alhambra book store to buy them from a Ticketmaster kiosk which is what I did (€14,30 including IVA). Definitely get the audio guide. Read reviews of The Alhambra on TripAdvisor.
  • Alhambra book store (Tienda Libreria de la Alhambra) is located at Calle Reyes Católicos, 40, 18009 Granada, Spain.
Granada - You get the best views of The Alhambra from Mirador de San Nicolas
Granada - You get the best views of The Alhambra from Mirador de San Nicolas

Granada - Inside The Alhambra
Granada - Inside The Alhambra

Granada - The details inside The Alhambra are incredible!
Granada - The details inside The Alhambra are incredible!

Granada - The Court of the Lions
Granada - The Court of the Lions

Granada - Fountain in The Court of the Lions
Granada - This fountain was a clock of sorts. Each lion would spew water
at the top of the hour. It worked until someone decided to take it
apart to see how it could tell time and it's never worked since!
  • I did a free walking tour through my hostel - we visited the Sacromonte caves and the Albayzin.
  • Have tea in the Albayzin - it's a tiny area with stores and cafes. It looks like Morocco. Read reviews of the Albayzin on TripAdvisor.
Granada - The Albayzin - very narrow streets lined with shops, restaurants, and tea shops
Granada - The Albayzin - very narrow streets lined with shops, restaurants, and tea shops

Granada - A lamp shop in the Albayzin
Granada - A lamp shop in the Albayzin

Granada - Tea and a snack in the Albayzin
Granada - Tea and a snack in the Albayzin

Granada - Genna and I enjoy our tea in the Albayzin
Granada - Genna and I enjoy our tea in the Albayzin
  • Genna and I went to the Hammam Al Andalus - it was HEAVEN. The front desk staff at my hostel called to make an appointment for me. You book a 90 minute session and you have access to cold, warm, and hot pools, a steam room, and a hot marble slab that you can lie on. Oh, and all the Moroccan mint tea you can drink. I also got a 30 minute massage. I would have gone a second time if I could. :o) You must wear a swimsuit but if you don't have one you can buy one from the front desk. Reviews of Hammam Al Andalus on TripAdvisor.
  • See King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella's tombs and actual coffins (underground) in the Royal Chapel. Tickets €4/person Cripta y Museo de los Reyes Catolicos. Reviews of the Cathedral and Royal Chapel on TripAdvisor.
  • Watch out for gypsies who tend to hang out around cathedrals like the Royal Chapel. They'll try to hand you a sprig of rosemary - they've got you the moment you touch the rosemary. They're aggressive and they'll try to read your palm. If you don't give them money they'll start yelling at you. One of the girls I met said she gave a woman 1 and 2 euro coins but the woman demanded bills. When I saw any of these women I just ignored them and kept walking even though a few of them tried to grab me. If one of the women manages to get rosemary into your had just drop it and keep walking. The worst that'll happen is you'll get yelled at but it's better than being out a few euros and feeling like you got scammed.
  • I bought a bus ticket from Granada to Seville. It cost 23 Euros. The bus ride was about 3 hours. I bought my bus ticket from my hostel and I took a city bus to get to the Granada bus station.
Seville - 3.5 days
  • Seville was my last city and after staying at hostels I figured I'd want some alone time so I booked a room at a hotel. I realized that I liked being around other travelers! I was so lonely in my single room. I stayed at Hotel Alcantara which was a few minutes from Seville Cathedral. Review of Hotel Alcantara on TripAdvisor.
  • I did a free walking tour with Pancho Tours - you pay whatever you want at the end. I did a morning tour which covered a lot of ground - Plaza de Espana, Queen Isabella's summer home, the cigar factory where Carmen worked (of the opera Carmen). Reviews of Pancho Tours on TripAdvisor.
  • Visit the Seville Cathedral - you'll see the Giralda bell tower that was rebuilt by conquerors. Roman stones on the bottom, Muslim-influenced arches in the middle section, topped off by a Catholic bell tower. You can climb all the way to the top. Visit Columbus' tomb inside the Cathedral. Reviews of Seville Cathedral on TripAdvisor.
Seville - Giralda bell tower
Seville - Giralda bell tower

Seville - The tomb of Christopher Columbus
Seville - The tomb of Christopher Columbus which may not  
contain his actual remains. I'm no fan of Christopher Columbus and 
I doubt you will be after you read this from The Oatmeal.
Seville - Bullfight arena
Seville - Bullfight arena
  • I hung out with Genna a few nights in Seville since she lived there at the time. I went over to her place in Triana for dinner one night and she met me for dinner another night near the Cathedral. We made plans to meet up back in the States and we did almost 2 years later when I went to Boston for my cousin's wedding. :o)
Seville - Juan Belmonte sculpture
Seville - A cool sculpture of Seville bullfighter Juan Belmonte that I saw
walking back to my hotel from Genna's place. If you line your camera 
up just right you can fit in the Giralda tower where his heart is. The sculpture
is in The Plaza of the Hill in the district of Triana.

Seville - Night time view of the Triana neighborhood
Seville - Night time view of the Triana neighborhood
  • I wandered around Barrio de Santa Cruz looking for the flamenco museum but I got totally lost. I had 2 maps and my iPhone and I still couldn't find it. I even roped 2 other tourists into helping me look for it. It turned out we were right around the corner from it. The printed maps didn't have enough detail to show the streets and sometimes street names change when they intersect with another street. I was amazed to see cars driving through some of these zig-zagging streets. At one point I had to jump onto a tiny curb so that a car could pass by. I was literally an arm's length away from the driver. So close that he could've pulled me into his car but there was actually no way he could've opened his door. Whew. :) Don't panic if you get lost. Just wander around and you'll find your way out sooner or later.
  • Visit the Alcazar but after seeing The Alhambra this place looked like a closet. Reviews of Real Alcazar on TripAdvisor.
Seville - The Alcazar
Seville - The Alcazar
Seville - Flamenco show at La Casa del Flamenco Auditorio Alcantara
Seville - Flamenco show at La Casa del Flamenco Auditorio Alcantara
Seville - Plaza de Espana
Seville - Plaza de Espana

My trip to Spain came at the end of a 4 week sabbatical. Prior to coming to Spain I spent 2 weeks in Peru - I hiked the Inca Trail to see Machu Picchu and also spent time in the Amazon rainforest. Please read about my Peru trip in another blog post Peru - Machu Picchu and the Amazon rainforest.

Another reason to love hostels - you meet really cool people. Genna and I met up almost two years later when I came to Boston for my cousin's wedding. She met my now husband and I met her boyfriend. Come visit us in San Francisco, Genna!


Boston - Genna and I meet up in Boston
Boston - Former Granada hostel roommates meeting up in Boston

If you enjoyed this please check out my other trip blogs:
Happy traveling and thanks for reading!

Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Help a fellow human

Photograph by Meg Bitton

When I was in college I went on a ski trip with a huge group of friends. Being college students we rented a cabin and all 20+ of us planned to cram in for the weekend. The rental office caught on and asked us to trim the numbers. Four friends and I were the last to arrive at the house so we agreed to find another place to stay.

I'm dating myself but this was before the Internet and cell phones so we... flipped through the Yellow Pages. It was night time so luckily we found a hotel with vacancy and planned to drive over. We were in 2 separate cars so our car headed down the hill to an open area near a condo complex to wait for our friends in the other car to pack up so we could caravan to the hotel.

While we waited in the car a woman approached us asking for help. She was waiting for the rest of her party to arrive but she asked if we could help her put snow chains on her car. It was already dark out but we were in no hurry so we were game. It took all 5 of us about half an hour and the rest of her family and friends arrived as we finished putting on her chains.

She asked where we were headed and we told her we were on our way to find a place to stay. She asked us to wait a moment while she discussed something with her family. She returned after 5 minutes and asked us if we'd like to stay with her and her 2 kids in her condo. She had extra loft space that slept 5 and a separate bathroom for us. It was the least she could do since we helped her with her chains. We were floored and we happily accepted.

She didn't have an extra set of keys so she left them in a safe place so we could come and go as we pleased. We stayed with her for 2 nights and she refused to let us pay for lodging. On our last night we treated her and her kids to pie and ice cream we picked up at the local grocery store.

I'm ashamed to admit that I didn't interact much with our host or her kids so I don't know her story. At the time I was shy and wary of strangers so I kept to myself or people I knew. I hadn't yet traveled much or interacted with a lot of people. My present day self would've taken the the time to get to know the kind stranger who opened up her home and turned what could've been an undesirable lodging situation into a beautiful experience. I may not know many details but more than a decade later I still remember all the positive emotions I felt. Looking back I'm amazed and thankful that we were brought together. There are good people in this world who will help each other out just because. Knowing that keeps me going and makes me smile.

I love hearing stories so please feel free to share yours about the kindness of strangers! Thanks!

Monday, February 24, 2014

Laugh at yourself

Glad to see Russia has a sense of humor during the closing ceremony!

Thursday, February 13, 2014

Easy recipe: marinated chicken for stir-fry

I lived in the dorms my first 2 years at UCLA so I never worried about cooking. Freshman 15? Try Freshman 25. When I moved to an apartment Junior and Senior year I had to start cooking - this simple marinated chicken recipe got me through the rest of college. I'd fly Southwest back to UCLA with a bag full of frozen tubs of marinated chicken that my mom prepared. I've since learned how to do it myself and it's still one of my staples to this day.

This recipe yields chicken that is tender and lightly seasoned and can be added to any veggie stir-fry. It only requires 5 ingredients, including the chicken! Total prep and cook time for the chicken: about 20 minutes (10 minutes alone just to prep and cut the chicken).

I use 2 pieces of organic boneless and skinless thigh meat. Trim the fat and dice the chicken into bite-size pieces. Cut against the grain of the meat to make it more tender. Cutting the chicken is the most time-consuming part of this process.


Add soy sauce and toss to coat

Add Chinese cooking wine and toss to coat

Add a spoon of corn starch - this makes the meat more tender

Mix in corn starch well

Add a little canola oil and mix well

That's it! Here are the ingredients I used (not including canola oil)

You don't need to let the chicken marinate - you can cook it immediately. Sauté the chicken until just done (should only take a few minutes). I like to cook it on one side until it develops a nice brown crust and then flip and toss it to cook thoroughly. After you're done sauteing, put the chicken in a separate bowl while you saute your other items.

Stir-fry your other veggies and when the veggies are cooked, add the chicken back in. At this point you're just warming up the chicken because it's already cooked. Add flavoring/sauce. You're done!

Serve and enjoy the dish over a bed of rice.





Monday, February 10, 2014

My Tiger Mom has turned into a cub

I'm an Asian-American kid who grew up in the Bay Area. I had a pretty typical childhood and upbringing - for ABC kids. I guess you could say I had a Tiger Mom when I was growing up. She was strict, lectured me a lot, and she had high expectations.

Now that I'm an adult my mom has mellowed out a lot. Either that or in her older age she just doesn't give a @#*$& anymore.

Occasionally I'll publish things my mom says. I hope you get a kick out of it!

http://tigermomknowsbest.tumblr.com


Sunday, February 9, 2014

Tough Mudder advice

I did Tough Mudder in Tahoe in 2012 and it was one of those experiences I loved and hated at the same time. Some obstacles were so challenging that I couldn't wait for it to be over but as soon as I finished the race I wanted to do it again! Ahhh, memories. I’ve had friends ask me for advice so I thought I’d share…

Tough Mudder Tahoe 2012
Getting ready for Tough Mudder Tahoe! Drifit, long sleeves, 
capris, gloves, wrist sweat band, and energy bars. Check!

Everest at Tough Mudder Tahoe
Everest at Tough Mudder Tahoe. Teamwork!

Everest at Tough Mudder Tahoe
Everest at Tough Mudder Tahoe. Love how all these Tough Mudders 
are hanging out on top just waiting to help out a fellow Mudder.

  1. Wear drifit so it dries faster. Dry clothes keep you warm. Compression will just stay cold, wet, and pressed up against your skin.
  2. Wear capris and long sleeves to avoid scraping elbows and knees. You're crawling through mud/dirt under barbwire or inside tubes and tunnels. There are tiny rocks in the mud which will shred up your knees.
  3. Tuck your shirt into your capris so you have a clean surface to wipe your eyes if needed. You’ll look like a dork but you’ll be a smart dork. I also wore a wrist sweat band - it got muddy and wet but I flipped it inside out and used the clean surface when I wanted to wipe my eyes.
  4. Carry energy bars with you - it’s a long 12-mile course.
  5. Wear gloves for protection and a better grip - logs, bars, etc. You can always take them off for certain obstacles.
  6. If you fall into the water below during an obstacle… BEND YOUR KNEES when you hit the water!!!  I misjudged the depth and landed on a straight leg from 7 feet up. I sprained my knee and fractured my tibia. But I still finished Tough Mudder!! I did this 4 miles in and walked the rest of the course.
  7. Don’t wear bobby pins in your hair - you’re running through live electric wires for a few obstacles. Let’s just say I got shocked a few times. On my head.
  8. Chernobyl Jacuzzi or Arctic Enema is a shipping container filled with water and ICE. There was a wooden board halfway down the container, blocking the path - the only way to get past it was to swim under it. Ugh. The best way to attack this obstacle is to just jam as fast as you can to the other side. I ran with my arms over my head for 2 reasons, (1) for less resistance - my arms in the icy water didn't help me get through it any faster and (2) so I could keep as much of my body out of the freezing water as I could. Some people grab onto the side to push them through but there was so much ice pushed up against it that I just went through the middle. There was a huge build up of ice at the other end so you have to bust through it or climb out on top of it. 
  9. Train to do pull-ups. You’ll need a lot of upper body strength for a bunch of obstacles. Funky Monkey are greased and spinning monkey bars. They’re designed to make you fail!! The best way to get across this is to keep your arms bent at 90 degrees and use your body momentum to propel you forward.
  10. Walk the Plank is a 12 ft jump into 30 degree water. I was so scared of this obstacle and I knew I'd start to freak out if I thought about it too much so I just jumped as soon as I got up to the platform. I shut my eyes and plugged my nose. The anticipation of hitting the water was THE WORST.
  11. Everest is a 15 foot tall quarter pipe wall near the end of the course. Sometimes it’s made of a slippery material or coated with grease to make it slippery. If you’re going to need help conquering it, find a Mudder who’s camped out at the top, make eye contact to make sure he knows you’re targeting him, and run full-speed toward him. When you hit the point where you can no longer run straight ahead (you’ve reached the upward curve), lean back a little so you’re not running into the wall. At the same time leap up and grab for his outstretched hands. Wrists are even better. Once connected, try to pull yourself up - hook on to the top ledge with your feet if you have to. Use everything you’ve got. I needed help from 3 people to get me over and I only weigh 115 lbs. I was just so exhausted at that point but it was the last obstacle so I should’ve tried harder.
  12. It’s okay to skip obstacles. No one will judge you. Trust your gut if you’re scared.
  13. Help others and be helped. Everest is one of the hardest obstacles and I couldn’t have done it without the help of a bunch of strangers. Everyone becomes your teammate. It’s a beautiful thing.
  14. Don’t be concerned with time. Enjoy yourself, interact with others, and take it all in!